What to do in Hikkaduwa?

Of all the places to travel in the tropics, Sri Lanka should be at the top of anybody’s list. A country plagued by problems in the past, most notably the civil war in the north (now over) and the tsunami of 2004, its impressive how quickly and totally things can turn around.

I’m currently staying in Hikkaduwa on the south west of Sri Lanka, the ideal location for exploring the south of Sri Lanka and all the surf breaks it has to offer. Fortunately the war never made it this far south but the bombings in Colombo and it’s airport was enough to put off many from exploring this stunning island. Unfortunately the tsunami did hit this part of the country, most of the damage was to the east with some areas losing up to 80% of the population. The death toll wasn’t as high on the western shores where Hikkaduwa is located but that’s not to say it escaped the tragedy. Travelling along the coast you can see the remnants of buildings gutted from the huge waves. A memorial to the lives lost by the passengers of a train that was rolled over, over 1,200 people dead, serves as a stark reminder of what happened here.

Despite the scars, which are still raw for some locals, the attitude and atmosphere here is upbeat, friendly and welcoming. I’ve been here for four weeks now and I feel like I’ve known some of the locals for years. They haven’t let the issues of the past remain a problem in the present. Life goes on and in this town that couldn’t be more true. The beach is now littered with bars and restaurants catering to the traveller, the surfer and the beach bum. There’s also a couple of surf schools offering board hire and lessons, one such place is Reef End Surf School.


Right hand reef break, Merissa

Reef End is by far my favourate spot on the beach. The story of Reef End is an inspiring one. Ary (managing director) was given two surfboards twenty years ago by a travelling surfer who was pioneering the surf spots in the area. Ary started renting them out on the beach and slowly built up his collection. When the tsunami hit, nearly everything was wiped out. Reef End is more than just a business, its a community. With the help of some friends, most notably Briony and Mano Iddagoda (Mano has been Ary’s friend since school who married Briony, from Wales) and Oliver Tritsch who helped Ary rebuild and bought loads of boards and gear to stock the Reef End shop.

Oliver, a French long boarder (formerly sponsored by O’Neill) has known Ary and the Reef End crew for 20 years. Oliver came to Hikkaduwa when he was 18 years old and has returned every year since. He now travels here with his wife and son and is testament to the attraction of this place. Oliver helped train the surf coaches at Reef End so you can be sure you’re getting top level coaching if you do have a lesson here.

Oliver told me about his involvement from the beginning, “when I can here for the first time there was not so many surfers, so what we decided to do was start something. Before there was the war, but now the war has finished so its a huge business, but before there was nothing. So slowly, slowly we bought boards and slowly, slowly it grew.”

It turns out that Reef End has been a success story not only for Ary, but also for three generations of Singhalese. Ary, Amila, Kalu and Mano were the first, all school friends. Later came Dilip and (Petit) Kalu who now coach. The latest additions are the younger guys, still in school but at Reef End the rest of the time, working and earning their stripes. From humble beginnings and with the help of friends, too many to mention here, Reef End has evolved into a business that has given a positive future for many others. Ary was telling me that the younger guys could easily have been pulled into gangs and hard drugs, but now they have prospects and a better outlook on life.


Sri Lankan buses, kings of the road

The community goes further than just the locals, if you wander by the shop (right on the beach in front of the beach break) you’re sure to see people from all over the world, Austria, France, Wales, England, South Africa to name a few, all hanging out on the decking, soaking up the sun and watching the breaks with intent.

Ary commented, “Year by year we are growing our crew internationally, a lot of Welsh but also a lot of other international people as well, they join the journey with us. Most tourists have been here ten times, and now bring their friends here also. You can do a little bit of everything in Hikawuda, surfing, watersports, shopping, partying and chilling”

Hikkaduwa has a couple of beach breaks ideal for beginners and ‘main point’, an ‘A frame’ reef break which breaks quite shallow over the coal reef. In February and March main point and beach break merge with the bigger swells and provide one big break. The best time of year to visit is from November to May for the surf on the west coast. From June to September is the best time to visit the east coast, Arugam Bay, a world class wave works well around that time, Reef End can provide trips to the east coast. In the spirit of catering for all kinds of surfer, you can rent pretty much any kind of board, short, long, mini-mal, body and foam for beginners and you can also buy all the surf gear you need from the Reef End shop. There’s also snorkelling, diving and water skiing available too. Reef End is the only government approved surf school in the area and they also provide a lifeguarding service to the beach as well.

At night this place really comes to life, the best bars to hit are Top Secret, Harbour, Mambo’s and Vibrations (who have live drumming). You know the party’s starting when you hear the fireworks going off. Some of the top places to stay are Top Secret and Nilla’s. For a traveller on a budget, try Brother’s.

Reef End Surf School
593 Galle Road
Narigama
Hikkaduwa
Sri Lanka

+94(0)777043559
reefend@yahoo.com
www.reefendsurfschool.com